Gallery of Past Historical Costumes.

Please note: If you wish to reproduce this in any way please credit me. We all work very hard and share our knowledge freely in the SCA. It would be a shame to find my work in someone elses name. Thank you. 

 

This contains some of the clothes I have made over the last little while for myself and others.

Please note: The reference pictures below are just to show the costume in context. For each outfit countless hours of research and study have informed the garments cut and construction, and they have been based on more than the one picture or portrait that is shown.

For other examples of my professional work within the film and theatre industry please go to:

https://www.facebook.com/chantellegerrardcostumes

 

red wool overdresssnowballs Climate-snow-and-ice-Tacuinum-Sanitatis-c.-1390-1400

Reference Picture: Snowballs, Tacuinum Sanitatis c.1390-1400.

2013. Red French over dress and Hood.

Dress is red wool outer, lined with white silk. Hood is Red wool outer, lined with red linen. Construction – Machine sewn seams, hand felled seams, hand sewn eyelettes for side lacing.  It is taken from the pattern for the blue dress below which is fully self supported and side laced.

This dress travels well, is comfortable and warm. The one drawback is the weight of it when in luggage going to events. The Hood is warm and stays on the head if my plats are under it. There are images of the lurpipe being draped over the head and I have found this helps keep the hood secure when doing tasks.

 

blue one Fitted French gown blue1

2013. 1390’s French or Italian blue dress.

Blue linen outer, lined with brown linen. Machine seams, hand felled seams. The neck and sides have tabby woven silk to keep them stable as in extant examples. Hand done eyelettes for side lacing. For more information on this dress please see the article about it on this website.

This dress is fantastic for travelling. It gives full support, it has worn well and is machine washable. It can be taken off without undoing the side lacing and is great for camping events and moving around/helping out.

Capturegefluegel-41

Reference pictures:

book of Hours,                         Goose keeping, Tacuinum sanitatis,

Duc De Berry.                           14th Century. Vienna Austrian National Library,

February  1412-1416                Cod Vindob. P n 2644, northern Italy in 1390

 

Capture1Capture3

Reference picture: Duc de Berry Book of Hours, c. 1412-1416

2013. Short sleeved front laced grey blue Linen Dress lined with red linen, red linen Under-dress lined with blue and white chemise.

Late 1300/early 1400’s French dress lined with Red linen. were taken from the blue 1390’s dress pattern. This outfit was based off a woman in the Duc de Berry Book of Hours. In the Australian heat I have worn it as seen in the painting with the short sleeved grey blue linen dress over the white chemise.

information on the book can be found below:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tr%C3%A8s_Riches_Heures_du_Duc_de_Berry

 

matwhite1silver

matwhite2matwhite4

Reference Picture: Woodcut of George Silver 1590.

 

2013. Elizabethan Man’s outfit of Hose, doublet and jack.

Leather pinked and slashed Jack. Silk satin pinked peascod belly doublet lined and interlined with linen. It is pad stitched with several layers of natural wadding to created the right look. Silk and silk satin pinked and slashed paned hose. The paned hose are lined and interlined with linen and wool.

This was made for my friend Guildmaster Don Baron Emrys Tydor. He originally wanted it made to fight his Guildmasters prize in at Festival in 2012. I had 9 days to make it and we decided against him fighting in it half way through construction. Pinked and slashed silk don’t like sword tips much and I think the phrase “I haven’t spent all this time and effort to have it destroyed first outing’ was muttered at some point while I was making it…

 

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red1500pink1

Underdress.

 

1530's Italian dress pink

 

‘Portrait of a Lady’, Pier Francesco di Jacopo Foschi (1502-1567), circa 1530-35.

2013. Pink Italian Dress.

This is 100% hand sewn and was researched for that purpose. It was made to enter the 2013 Realm of Venus competition and If you wish to know more about it please look at the write up on this site about it or the link for the competition is below

 

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/challenges/IRCC2013/IRCC3-2013-ChantelleG.htm

 

Brughel manPieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_Peasant_Wedding_-_Google_Art_Project_2

Reference Picture: The Peasant Wedding, Pieter Bruegel the Elder, 1567.

2013. Red ‘ Brughel man’ coat and shirt. Red wool lined with blue linen, white linen shirt.

Made for my fiend Guildmaster Don Baron Emrys Tydor, the coat is modeled of the picture of one of the men in ‘The Peasant Wedding’.

The red coat above and blue outer layer below were made not just from looking at the one painting example given, but by studying Bruegel’s work extensively and working out the best way to replicate it through careful thought and study.

 

matt1Brughel peasants

800px-Bruegel,_Pieter_de_Oude_-_De_val_van_icarus_-_hi_res

Painting reference: Fall of Icarus, ‘possibly’ 1560, Pieter Bruegel :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landscape_with_the_Fall_of_Icarus

2013. ”Brueghel Man’

White linen shirt, Blue wool lined with yellow linen cross over skirted outer layer, and  woolen joined hose.

Men’s outfit made for my friend Guildmaster Don Baron Emrys Tydor. There is also a man’s linen apron that goes with this ensemble. He wanted an outfit that he could work in and that he could layer.  He often wears the Red jacket above under the blue.

Linen tunic, Blue wool lined with linen cross over skirted outer layer, and joined hose.

 

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Pieter_Bruegel_de_Oude_-_De_bruiloft_dans_(Detroit)PIETER BRUEGHEL THE YOUNGEr outside peasant dance

 

Pieter Brueghel the Elder,                          Pieter Brueghel The Younger,

The Wedding Dance,                                The Outdoor Wedding Dance,

1566.                                                            Replica of a lost work by Pieter Bruegel, 1607

 

2012 ‘Brughel’  Woman’s coat.

The Woman’s coat is taken from the painting above and other paintings by Brughel. It is not lined with fur panels like some of the pictures show (see the outdoor wedding dance), instead it is Grey wool outer with yellow linen lining as seen in one of the paintings. It has hooks and eyes up the front and is box pleated. The Underdress is a dress that is cut the same as the coat on the back (as evident in the pictures) and front laces. This pattern for the dress under it has been used by several people now to make their own ‘Brughel’ dresses and coats in the SCA and in the metal weapon community in New Zealand.

The coats and the dresses have been used as loaner garb many times over the years. There is also a pink coat lined with coral linen that I made for my friend Catherine.

 

catherine

2012 ‘Brueghel’ woman:

Green linen lined with rust linen over a red linen kirtle, beige apron and white linen chemise with slight ruff.

This dress was one of three made in 2012 quickly for Canterbury faire along with the coats described above.

The Under-dress is a dress that is cut the same as the coat on the back (as evident in the pictures) boxed pleated and front laces.

This pattern for the dress has been used by several people now to make their own ‘Brughel’ dresses within the SCA and in the metal weapon community in New Zealand.

The coats and the dresses have been used as loaner garb many times over the years.

 

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2008 Generic ‘Tudor’ English Dress, middle picture has a parlet with a ruff over the dress.

This is red wool lined and interlined with linen. It is the first dress I had made in this style and I took direction off the way it should be cut – i.e. bodice with straps attached from people within my home Barony of Ildhafn that had had made dresses in this style. It was a good learning curve at the time, and I have learnt a lot since then about different aspects of cutting/construction. It has been used by many people in the group, and as loaner garb. I now think of it as my friend Catherine’s dress as it is a part of her staple wardrobe at events.

The black dress is the same pattern – Black linen lined in linen.

 

8 1525 Bernardino Licinio (1489-1565) Woman with book mushclose mushroom1

 

Bernardino Licinio, 1525. Woman with a book.

2013. ‘Mushroom Dress’ – Italian 1525. Mushroom pink cotton velvet, lined with silk. Please see the article on this dress for more information. Please also note: the proper chemise and Apron were on loan to someone when these pictures were taken.

 

chris1chris2chris3

chris6chrisfunny5Christine christina

Reference picture: Christina of Denmark, Holbein 1538.

2012. Maroon ballroom silk, linen interlined, fake fur and possum fur lined.

Please see my page on this for further information. This loose gown and what I have learnt from it has helped me make this type of gown for others as well as instruct many people on their own over the last few years including friends in my home Barony,  Southron Gaard and Ireland.

 

ITALIAN          THREE

1520’s Italian Dress.

based on the painting by Bacchiacca “The Preaching of Saint John the Baptist” (detail) c.  1520

2015 Burgundy silk, linen interlining, pale blue lined. blue silk sleeves, velvet guarding.

made for festival 2015

 

 

orangeapron1orange1

2009. 1300’s  Generic linen medieval dress, linen coif, and linen apron.

Usually this dress has a brown linen dress that goes underneath it. There is also an orange under-dress. This outfit and the various under dresses have been used many times as loaner garb as it is a good ‘first dress’ for someone to wear to an event as it is simple and comfortable. It is also a good first dress to make as it is relatively simple and goes together fast. It is completely machine washable and has lasted many years.

This is a dress style that I have made for people/ helped people make countless times. It has two front rectangle panels, gores in the front, sides and back and fitted sleeves. It can be lined or not.

 

Capture

 

2013. Master, Baron Grim. wearing Green woolen tunic with fitted sleeves, and side gores, and grey woolen split hose.

This was an outfit I originally made for the film the ‘Quickener’ in 2011 and then lent to him to take over to Battle of Nations.  It looked so good on him and he like the hose and Tunic so much that we made a deal….

I have many variants of this outfit – including a blue, brown and grey woolen tunic, and many linen tunics also – including orange, blue, brown, and grey. All have been used by various friends and new comers over the years.

 

alison 2

 

Early 1500’s English.

In 2014 my friend Alison asked me to make her an early ‘Tudor’ wardrobe (to save her from the curtain’s she had been wearing) – so we did it. I didn’t have time to take photos of all the layers etc. (I will update this when I go back to Ireland).

The  charcoal blue wool over dress has a visible weave. straight cut with gores It is lined with white linen. The side lacing Kirtle is dark blue Linen, lined with white linen, and the Chemise is white linen. Coif and veil are on her head. They are all machine sewn but hand finished, and cut with the off the shoulder pattern as an experiment. (I need to teach Alison how to spiral lace….hehe)

Coats:

 alison 3

 

I made Alison a coat to go with her new wardrobe above. It is double wool – lining and outer (as it gets cold in Ireland) and the cuffs fold back, and come over her hands when not folded.

Coat #2

alison 1

 

2014. Later period Merchants wife’s coat. Wool, linen lined, velvet trim and hook and eyes for fastening. it is cut with gores in the sides and back. Coif adorns her head, and there is a 100% hand stitched frilled chemise (a Christmas present) under the side lacing Kirtle.

 

GYTHA

2014. Dress in the 1390’s style made for my friend Gytha in Ireland. See notes at the very top for details. There is also an over dress like my Red ‘snowball’ dress that goes over this.

 

BRUGHEL field worker

2015: 1565 workers outfit taken from the painting ‘The Hay Harvest’ by  Pieter Bruegel.

Red linen, linen lined with linen interlining. Machine sewn, hand felled seams, hand finished. Lacing rings to fasten. Linen Chemise hand finished.  Linen apron cloth tucked into belt. Linen turban.

Made for my friend Catherine to wear to Crown in Ildhafn in 2015, to the same pattern used for the blue 1390’s dress and the 1530’s pink dress. The line on the painting and a few other indicators lead me to experiment with the ‘anti-gravity’ shoulder idea for this style also.

 

photoshop me

 

2010. 1560’s White silk satin and yellow silk paned hose, White silk satin and gold thread doublet and yellow leather jack.

This was my first Elizabethan boy’s outfit. It happened because of the gloves. It has survived many camping events regardless of the silk.

 

2685

2011. ‘1569 Unkown woman’s dress’

Cotton velvet, silk lined. Couch work with hook and eye closing at the front.

This is worn with stays, a farthingale and petticoat. This picture unfortunately does not have the embroidered chemise that usually goes under it. This was my first experiment with later period dress and I have learnt much since first starting it. It has been worn many times by many people but I definitely know what I would do differently next time.

 

vic 2 vic1

2013

Victorian 1860’s Ball dress. silk, linen lined, polyester trim, crinoline, corset. period pattern.

 

vic 3

2013

Victorian Day Dress. Silk, linen lined, polyester trim, crinoline, corset and period pattern.

 

 

Please note: If you wish to reproduce this in any way please credit me. We all work very hard and share our knowledge freely in the SCA. It would be a shame to find my work in someone elses name. Thank you. 

 

3 Responses “Gallery of Past Historical Costumes.” →
  1. Hello, Chantelle! I am working on an early Italian renaissance gown and would really love to get your pattern for the “anti-gravity” shoulders! I am also a well-rounded woman, and am simply not as experienced or well-trained as you. I have read the blogs on your 1390s dress and would like to do one of those as well, and it seems you used the same cut on the bodice for both? Is a pattern available?

    Reply
  2. OMG, I can’t believe here I found a small piece of my huge painting that hangs in my home, entitled ‘THE HAY HARVEST’. Can anyone help me find the whole painting so that I can learn more about the story and the artist.

    Reply
    • hello!

      There are different websites that do prints of Brughel’s paintings, and there are HEAPS of books out there on him (usually every second hand shop I have been into sells a book on his artwork)….but here is a start….https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Hay_Harvest

      I know it is a Wikipedia page…but it has some info on it – otherwise just search The hay harvest and Brughel..happy hunting!

      Reply

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